West of Ponte Vecchio and the gold bridge spanning the Arno stands Palazzo Strozzi, refreshingly incognito. Constructed at the end of the fifteenth-century by Filippo Strozzi after his Medici-organized exile from Florence was lifted, it might just be another fifteenth-century palace surrounded by luxury boutiques and hotels—brassy Louis Vuitton out one door, stealth-wealth Celine out another—and not home to Florence’s most humane museum experience, Anselm Kiefer’s Angeli caduti.