Mark Dery

Mark Dery is a cultural critic and essayist, based in New York. His latest book is the biography Born To Be Posthumous: The Eccentric Genius And Mysterious Life Of Edward Gorey, published by Little, Brown in 2018.

http://markdery.com/

Camp: Notes on Fashion can’t seem to make up its mind about what Camp is. The wall text that opens the exhibition puts us on notice: “This exhibition might raise more questions than it answers: ‘Is camp gay?’ ‘Is camp political?’ And, ultimately, ‘What is camp?’”
Installation view: Camp: Notes on Fashion, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 2019. Courtesy the Metropolitan Museum of Art, BFA.com/Zach Hilty.
Crepuscule with Bowie, I thought, not quite groping my way through the perpetual twilight of David Bowie is at the Brooklyn Museum. The 400 artifacts in this blockbuster show—costumes (stage and offstage, because when wasn’t Bowie onstage?), handwritten lyrics, record-cover art, stage-set designs and maquettes, personal effects (including, fabulously, the Great Man’s coke spoon from the dissolute mid-seventies)—are displayed in vitrines or mounted on stagelike platforms and spotlit.
Photograph from the album cover shoot for Aladdin Sane, 1973. Photo Duffy © Duffy Archive & The David Bowie Archive
Flattered as I was to be invited onto the dais for this special installment of the Brooklyn Rail, I was, to be frank, a little unsettled by the thesis statement.
Smell that? It’s the smell of Deep Time. Not in the scientific sense of the fathomless vastness of geological time, but in the mythic, plumed-serpent, under-the-jaguar-sun sense. The Mexican sense.
All photos by David Lida.

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