LEE HALLMAN is a curator and a Ph.D. Candidate at the CUNY Graduate Center completing her dissertation on the London landscape paintings of Frank Auerbach and Leon Kossoff. She is a regular contributor to the Burlington Magazine.
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A crowd has assembled beneath the soaring portico of the Dogana da Mar. Children and dignified-looking adults in cloaks and pointed hats stand in clusters, shadows on their backs, gazing across the San Marco basin. What spectacle holds them rapt?