Christopher Small is a writer and filmmaker living in the United Kingdom. He is the head of the Critics Academy at the Locarno Festival, where he has worked since 2017.
I am at Play-Doc, a four-day documentary festival in Tui, Spain. Across the river, which doubles as the border with Portugal, the fortress town of Valença do Minho sits atop a hill, its buildings and inhabitants shielded from view by the 800-year-old walls that encircle them. To walk there from the festival center in Tui takes less than 30 minutes and spans a time zone.